這是一封來自澳洲(香港朋友,目前居住在澳洲)的網友留言。我雖不願意去碰觸所有DIY族的保養問題,但千里之外的殷切求救信函,置之不理,於心何忍....。也期待網友們,從這封信中幫忙找到這個DIY配方上的問題,讓為數不少的DIY族更小心看待DIY保養品這件事。

給親愛的張麗卿老師

Really happy to learn about your passion and your professionalism in teaching!!  I’ve been learning a lot from your books and your blog!  Go for it!   Sorry that I’ve to use English in the posting, as I don’t know Chinese typing but only copy and paste.   Sorry for the inconvenience caused, please get back in Chinese, I can read Chinese 100%.  I’m so desperate now and I look forward to your help.

Some 6 months ago in Oct 2007, I attended a Skincare DIY Course and I made a peeling mask.  I’ve been suffering from allergy after ONLY one application.  Such allergies come every 2 or 3 weeks, appear on the same patches on my face, near the jaw, chin, forehead and the sides of the nose (NOT the eye and lip areas); I’m quite convinced that my “recurring” skin problem originated from the peeling mask , if not the acids.  As I applied on the very same parts of my face when I used the peeling mask the only one time, trying to stay away from the eye and lip areas.

Here’s the ingredients in the peeling mask (total yield Approx 60ml) :

45g           Xanthan Gum base

5ml          Green tea extract (liquid) 

2.5 ml       Lactic acid  

2.5ml        White willow bark extract (Salicylic acid as I was told)

2ml          Vitamin E

2ml          Hyalouronic acid 1% solution

5 drops     Juniperberry essential oil

3 drops     lavender essential oil

4 drops     Rose essential oil - 3% diluted in jojoba oil

What’s happened to me is that I’ve never used the product a second time (in fact I used only once), but I’ve found the problem a never ending story to me.  Every time I’m suffering from the skin disorder, my face goes really red, dries up, itchy and peels and it can last for a week or so, until I used steroid cream and the skin goes back to “normal”.  Seems that I “knew” how thing goes, though I always try to see if my skin will go well again without using steroids.

As I read your book 《化妝品好壞知多少》, I’ve learnt that AHA cleansers can be harmful to the skin.  Seems that as in my case, the horny layer of my skin has become very thin and susceptible to even cream with diluted essential oils.  That’s why problems come every now and then; once after an outing, the other time, after using a “harsh” shampoo, etc.

I’ve been to doctors (GP) and they just gave me steroids prescription.  I wanted to see a Chinese practitioner but here in Australia I can’t find a “good” Chinese doctor (originated from Hong Kong, I’m now in Australia ).   I was wondering if there’s anything I can do now, to stop the problem from getting worse?   I look forward to your professional advice.  Thanks so much!

這位朋友是參加DIY課程,學到製作這款[去角質面膜]的。糟糕的是只使用了那麼一次,讓自己的皮膚因刺激起過敏現象,半年來反覆的脫皮、皮膚發紅,必須要用醫師開的類固醇藥膏來緩解。我想,除了繼續尋找醫師協助之外,他最想的是不要再靠類固醇藥膏,可以正常的回覆以前健康的肌膚狀態。

首先,我想跟大家討論一下這個DIY的配方問題。這產品中的去角質主力是乳酸(Lactic acid)多少濃度不知,一般常見的有95% / 70% / 60%,我們假設它是95-100%的話,那完成品的乳酸濃度是4%左右。4%的乳酸,在未經任何刻意調整酸鹼度的情形下,pH值將很低,也就是很酸的意思。這對皮膚來說,不是濃度刺激的問題,而是酸度刺激的問題。

再者,整個DIY的原料,看似全部取自天然素材,但沒有任何一樣可以用DIY的方式獲得,全部都是化工材料行才有的「天然」原料!(這一點是我最不能認同的DIY。)這裡有隱藏著諸多「看不到」的隱形因子,兩種植物萃取液、1%的玻尿酸液體,包括Xanthan gum base 都一定含有防腐劑,但是是什麼防腐劑?不知道。

三種植物精油,加上維他命E油,純度來源皆不詳。但卻極可能是造成這一款去角質面膜皮膚嚴重脫屑過敏的重要幫凶。(精油常引起皮膚過敏)

醫師能告訴妳什麼?除了奉勸你不要隨便用DIY的東西之外,無法在這種情形下幫你找到「引發過敏」的答案。

我比較擔心的是,這樣引發的皮膚敏感問題,即有可能伴隨著這個網友一段很長很長的時間,皮膚就此經常發生類似性蕁麻疹、異位性皮膚炎的現象。發炎發紅時,就使用類固醇藥膏,當然有待商榷(用藥部分應該還有緩衝區)。平時如何自救自保,這樣的功課必須要學習到。

讓皮膚休息--休息--休息,是一件絕對必要的事。休息,就是純保濕,不要提供任何你認知的保養品營養成分。

擦上玻尿酸保濕液(或找成分簡單不帶香味的透明保濕精華液來用),蓋上一層薄薄的凡士林(或是用非常陽春的護唇膏、非常簡單配方的嬰兒乳液、藥粧通路特別提供給敏感性肌膚使用的乳液)。洗臉,先用溫水洗掉覆蓋在皮膚上多餘的油脂(凡士林、乳液等),再用極少量的洗面乳,幫忙洗去臉上老廢的角質與汗垢污垢。

夏天到來,減少乳液的塗抹量,維持保濕精華的使用。再用另外一個半年來換回健康的肌膚,我想是有機會的。

引用: http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/cos-topic/article?mid=3504&prev=-2&next=3434&page=1&sc=1#yartcmt

arrow
arrow
    全站熱搜

    beauty567 發表在 痞客邦 留言(0) 人氣()